Drinking coffee is a modern Greek tradition

Coffee remains the dominant hot beverage in Greece but there has been an uptick in herbal/botanical teas, particularly within functional varieties. Both are showing tepid growth despite rising costs, the country’s economic woes and other external issues. By Eugene Gerden.

The tea and coffee markets in Greece are steadily developing this year despite traditional economic problems of the country caused by high debts and soaring energy costs. In general, drinking coffee is a strong modern Greek tradition, with 95 percent of Greek consumers buying coffee. 

The lifting of pandemic restrictions has provided an impetus for growth for many segments of the Greek national economy and industrial sectors, including tea and coffee, however, a number of serious problems, along with the ongoing hostilities in Ukraine, continues to put a serious pressure on the industry, preventing its more active growth. 

According to global market research firm Euromonitor International, price hikes are currently the main factor that impacted hot drinks sales in Greece. 

Ilaria Abagnale, a senior consultant at Euromonitor, said that coffee manufacturers being unable to absorb costs (and therefore passing on via higher retailing prices to consumers) combined with disposable incomes decreasing has created a significant demand challenge. She said this has negatively affected consumption, since decreasing disposable incomes and higher prices are forcing consumers to cut back on their purchases. 

“Discounting activities have been increasingly being used by retailers as companies seek ways to prevent losses. For example, more companies are introducing economy ranges to appeal to cash-strapped customers,” said Abagnale. “Thanks to these activities, volume sales recorded a mitigate decline for overall hot drinks, as consumers are choosing to migrate to cheaper products rather than avoiding them altogether. However, coffee and tea registered a 0.2 percent and 0.7 percent growth respectively.” 

Greece is attractive to coffee chains 

In the meantime, major global players have been interested in the Greek coffee and tea markets. One of them is Coca-Cola HBC, which in recent years has significantly strenghthened its position in Greece’s coffee market. 

Athina Popof, coffee, premium spirits and snacks director, Coca-Cola HBC Greece & Cyprus, told T&CTJ that the company has distributed the Costa Coffee at-home range, which includes five different propositions of roasted and ground espresso and seven different varieties of espresso capsules. 

“Through our distribution network, we are serving Costa Coffee in independent cafés all over Greece. We are also addressing new channel opportunities with our own close system and capsule solutions,” Popof said. “In 2022, we strengthened our proposition with the launch of Caffè Vergnano, which offers authentic Italian espresso, in Greece, following an exclusive distribution agreement with the family-owned Italian coffee company.” Headquartered in Santena, Italy, Caffè Vergnano is one of the oldest coffee roasters in Italy with roots dating back to 1882. 

Popof noted that it is a super-premium and high-quality coffee that represents Italian heritage and authenticity at its best. “Caffè Vergnano’s products focus exclusively on the HoReCa (hotel, restaurant and café) channel, targeting premium customers. It matches perfectly with our strategic priority to create value and support our customers in this sector.” 

Furthermore, Popof shared that the two brands are highly complementary, which enables Coca-Cola HBC to address an even wider range of consumer tastes and segments. “Caffè Vergnano allow us to recruit consumers loyal to the Italian coffee taste, while Costa continues to be our mass premium global coffee proposition with broad consumer appeal across multiple platforms.” 

“Our focus in 2023 and beyond is to continue building distribution and appeal in these two great coffee propositions. Together with our partners, it is our passion to respond to all our customer and consumer needs with top quality coffee propositions for all occasions,” she explained. 

According to Popof, in general, in Greece, coffee is not just a product, it is part of the culture, and part of daily lives. She added this is also evident by the category growth both in HoReCa and in supermarkets in Greece. On a year-to-date basis, espresso coffee is growing by almost 10 percent, and this trend is expected to continue. 

Popof believes that modern coffee consumers are typically very well informed and have high standards. They are also diverse in their preferences. “This is why we have evolved our portfolio to offer two different brands, each with a unique proposition within the category.” 

Local player Kafea Terra is expanding its interests in Greece, with investments of EUR €6 million over the next two years and a 28 percent stake in the HoReCa market. Owned by local businessman, Yiannis Iosifidis, Kafea Terra, which produces Greek espresso under the Dimello brand and exclusively distributes illy coffee in Greece, is nearing €100 million in sales. 

Although it is estimated that coffee will show a decline in the Greek market in the next five years, Nikos Kougioumtzis, the commercial director of Kafea Terra, said in a press conference that the company plans to continue its expansion, particularly with its flagship Greek Dimello ground espresso, which now accounts for 20 percent in the Greek retail. 

Still, according to some Greek media reports, the ever-rising prices force Greeks to drink less coffee as well as tea. 

In general, the Greek coffee market is characterised by intense competition and saturation, especially in HoReCa segment (with, per Greek business paper, Capital, more than 70,000 bakeries, cafés, restaurants, and hotels throughout the country), which has forced some leading local players to expand in abroad. 

According to Greek Total Business magazine, in recent years many leading Greek coffee chains such as Coffee Lab, Mikel Coffee Company, Coffee Island, Grigoris and Coffee Berry have begun active foreign expansion. 

Economy options

In terms of coffee consumption, annually, at-home consumption is estimated at €300 million, while the out-of-home market reaches €3 billion in consumer prices. In volume terms, consumption hits 40,000 tonnes per year, 40 percent of which is consumed in restaurants and 60 percent at home and in workplaces. Per the Capital, the annual per capita consumption of coffee in Greece is estimated at 500 cups per year. 

According to the Hellenic Coffee Union, ground coffee in Greece accounts for 78 percent of sales, while 18 percent is capsule sales, which have shown growth in recent years. 

Euromonitor noted that given the strong price increases in the coffee category, more expensive segments (such as fresh ground coffee pods) slowed their growth. Since there aren’t many economy options, consumers switched to less expensive coffee categories such as standard fresh ground coffee. Likewise, the value growth in tea (which has been driven by premiumisation) slowed as fewer consumers can afford to purchase premium products on a regular basis. 

In response, retailers have undertaken major discounting activities and allocated more space to economy ranges. For instance, AB Vassilopoulos introduced a new private label coffee in 2022 under the name of Perla. The Perla range is comprised of fresh ground coffee pods (compatible with both Nespresso and Dolce Gusto machines) as well as filter coffee and espresso products. Domestic company, NutCo, introduced the Buon Gusto economy brand; compatible with Dolce Gusto coffee machines. 

Tea, a small market with potential 

Thanks to the healthy living trend and the strong marketing of the wellness and immunity-strengthening benefits of certain types of tea, these categories have attracted a lot of investment from both domestic and international players, leading to greater product variety, and grocery retailers are allocating more shelf space to such products. As such, visibility of herbal and green teas is growing and encouraging more people to purchase it. 

Caffeine-free infusion teas are particularly well-positioned to gain share in Greece as they do not compete with coffee – the most popular hot drink in the country. Instead, infusion teas are positioned to meet different consumption occasions, such as the evening time. The relaxation and sleep aid qualities of infusion teas make them more appealing to consumers and is stealing share from black tea. 

Over the forecast period, the consumption of tea is set to grow due to the expected persistence of the healthy living trend and the increase in product variety and availability. This has resulted in an increase in consumer awareness and attracted new consumers to the category, many of whom will continue to purchase tea in the coming years. Nevertheless, once dynamic, tea’s market penetration is low given the cost of living crisis and because there is not a strong tea drinking culture in Greece, consumers have reduced spending on non-essentials. 

Dimitris Siandris, COO of Lux, a Greek beverage company based in the city of Patras, speaking to Greek media, confirmed consumers’ shift to healthy tea options, including iced tea. “The past year was a pivotal year for businesses in the sector. We have witnessed a shift in the purchasing public to products with high nutritional value that harmonise with a balanced diet. The long-term confinement due to the pandemic and dealing with health issues created a completely different situation, to which we were called to respond in the best possible way”. 

Positive outlook ahead 

Euromonitor analysts believe Greece is set to remain a coffee dominant market when it comes to hot drinks and per capita consumption of this category will remain high. Coffee will remain the largest category in both the off-trade and on-trade channels. 

The share of fresh ground coffee is set to grow further at the expense of instant coffee. Most notably, Greek-style fresh ground coffee is anticipated to retain a loyal audience, with this already the largest category in terms of volume sales. Meanwhile, coffee pods appear to not yet have reached maturity and thus have plenty of space to grow. This category will continue to benefit from the strong increase in investment by leading players as well as the entry of new companies capitalising on this trend. 

Within the off-trade channel, value will perform better than volume across all hot drinks categories thanks to the continuing rise in average unit prices and the ongoing premiumisation trend. Although people in Greece will experience a decline in disposable incomes, this is set to affect volume sales more than value because it is higher-income consumers who purchase premium products, and they tend to be less affected by economic turbulence than lower-income consumers. Furthermore, consumers have become more demanding and are more likely to consume fewer items than to trade down to cheaper products. 

The ‘home barista’ trend (which gathered pace during the lockdown period of the pandemic) is set to remain relevant over the forecast period, with consumers expected to continue investing in premium coffee experiences at home. Whilst such experiences are more expensive than buying and preparing instant coffee, they remain less expensive than purchasing coffee through on-trade channels. As such, the decline in disposable incomes will drive some consumers towards premium at-home experiences whilst reducing the amount they spend out-of-home on foodservice. 

In case of tea, given that the consumer base of tea in Greece is largely comprised of higher income people, many of whom are health conscious, the decline in disposable incomes is not set to have a strong impact on tea-purchasing behaviour. Instead, such consumers are likely to prioritise quality over quantity, allowing premium brands to continue to gain share and add value to the category. 

Unfortunately, consumers must deal with escalating coffee prices because of a Special Consumption Tax on coffee in Greece.  

The president of the Hellenic Coffee Union, Yannos Benopoulos recently said in an interview with Greek media, that “not only does there exist a Special Consumption Tax on coffee, but it has been a constant request of the Hellenic Coffee Union in recent years to abolish it.” He added that “this specific tax measure burdens the operating costs of businesses as well as the price of the coffee that the consumer buys.” 

• Eugene Gerden is an international freelance writer, who specializes in covering global coffee, tea and agricultural industry. He worked for several industry titles and can be reached at [email protected]. 

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