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Coffee & Tea Fest

Food Service Coffee's
Quid
Pro
Quo

By Timothy J. Castle


The marketing of coffee through the foodservice channel in the U.S. is a mess. This does not mean that it isn’t a profitable business, or that roasters, distributors, foodservice operators, or even consumers are unhappy with it. No, everybody seems to be happy with the average cup of coffee that the foodservice industry seems able to muster. But from the standpoint of delivering a good quality cup of coffee to the consumer, a cup of coffee that the consumer might get excited about, and want to buy more of, or even to take home, it’s just not happening.

The coffee served in most restaurants, from the roadside diner to the finest and most expensive establishments is, for the most part, absolute dreck. This is not solely because all roasters and distributors for the foodservice trade are selling garbage, because many are not. Nor is it because restaurant managers and chefs are buying garbage, because some restaurateurs are buying great coffee. Even in the rare instances when great coffee is arriving at the restaurant’s back door, the final delivery of the product is assigned to the most poorly trained and least-valued personnel in the operation. What’s more, these workers are given tools that will ensure their failure. Hence, even if the coffee they had to work with was exquisitely fresh, perfectly roasted and from the most distinguished estates, it would almost certainly be unrecognizable, not to mention undrinkable, once it was poured into the cup of the credulous and unsuspecting diner.

The diner that has just been served that highly imperfect cup of coffee, however, is just finishing lunch, breakfast, or dinner, and is under pressure, from some direction, to leave. Breakfast and lunch are cut short by the demands of work or social commitments; dinner, by the desire of the manager to either turn the table or get his poorly trained and undervalued service personnel off the clock.

It would be possible to read this and begin thinking that the blame for bad foodservice coffee is being laid somewhere. As a disclaimer, then, rest assured that it is being laid everywhere. We (and that includes everyone from farmers to consumers, and certainly this writer) are to blame. All of us in the industry have obviously not promoted our product well enough to get it the respect it deserves. Furthermore, even when it comes to eating out ourselves, we usually drink the stuff without complaint, making allowances for “the poor busboy” or “real world conditions” or because the supplier to the restaurant is a friend of ours. (Restaurateurs have an uncanny ability to blame their supplier for anything that goes wrong with their coffee - the slightest complaint can easily prompt them to threaten a change in suppliers, if only to negotiate a lower cost per pound on their coffee purchases.) Even at the fanciest high-end restaurants, where everything on the menu is described down to the last detail, when it comes to coffee all that the menu is likely to say is, “coffee.” And again, if by some miracle it says more, something like, “fancy estate coffee” or a coffee mentioned by brand name, it is almost certainly screwed up by the restaurant in some horrific way at the brewing station either with bad equipment, or because the coffee itself was stored on top of the brewer or next to the ice machine’s condenser or because the stock was ordered and rotated in such a way that it is always certain to be a year old or because it was brewed sometime during the reconstruction. Great coffee, when subjected to this panoply of abuses, often tastes worse than if it were good old weak under-roasted Robustas.

Conspiracy theorists have really missed the boat when it comes to the vast network of forces that come to bear on ensuring that the North American diner receive a truly bad cup of coffee at the end of his or her meal - no matter what. Surely, something that is accomplished with such consistency, dedication, infallibility, not to mention statistical certainty, can be said to be the product of mere circumstance. The question for these paranoid wonderers is...why?

Now, believe it or not, this was going to be an article about brewing equipment, and it could have been. It could have talked about all the improvements that most manufacturers are making, if somewhat grudgingly, to their lineups and how the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) is signing up more and more Golden Cup Award winners and how the world will be safe for a great cup of coffee during our lifetimes. But things aren’t moving fast enough, first of all, ask any farmer who’s growing anything better than a Brazil 3/4 or some kind of Robusta; and second, you can’t talk about brewing equipment without talking about the environment in which these machines exist. Each improvement made by a manufacturer, in the current market environment, to their product line is done so at a great risk. The demand for a better brewing machine, one that can consistently deliver coffee brewed within the parameters suggested by the SCAA, cannot be said to reliably exist. The demand for such machines is not there from the distributors who buy the machines and place them, or from the restaurateurs who use them.

Why is it in the interests of foodservice operators and their suppliers to serve bad coffee to the consumer, even when the roasted coffee itself might be good? First of all, foodservice operators are in the business of serving food, not coffee. They would rather spend their time selling an entrée than having a table occupied with diners slowly, reflectively, and enjoyably sipping on wonderful cups of coffee. No, that is the restaurant manager’s worst nightmare. Once restaurant patrons have eaten their meals and ordered their desserts, what better way to ensure their departure and either free up precious real estate or allow the manager to send home the last remains of their staff than to serve those diners a cup of black stewed liquid so wretched and gustatorily acrimonious it will almost kick them out the door all by itself? Yes, most coffee in most restaurants, even in the era of “specialty coffee,” sends the not-so-subliminal message, “Here’s your hat, what’s your hurry?”

The conspiracy does not stop there, however. Remember, this is a vast conspiracy, one that has been carefully orchestrated, over decades, and has mechanisms that are in place to ensure that it prevails. What about complaints? If the coffee were so bad, wouldn’t there be complaints? Well, there aren’t any complaints. In fact, to anyone that does complain, they are told that “everyone else” loves their coffee and that their specific complaint is utterly baffling and certainly irrelevant. Don’t they know anything about coffee?

That foodservice operators receive so few complaints about their coffee probably has a lot to do with the “Stockholm Syndrome.” That phenomenon where kidnap victims can sometimes, especially during long kidnappings, take the side of their kidnappers and start co-operating with them. In the case of coffee, foodservice consumers are told that bad coffee is really their friend and at some point they begin to believe it and even defend it. The trick, and foodservice operators know this well, is to never change kidnapper, eh, coffee (except to negotiate a lower price). If the coffee changes, then the customer is totally thrown off, they don’t know anything about the way coffee should taste but they do know what they’re used to, which must be good because they’ve always had it. They know anything else must be lousy. How do they describe any sort of change in their coffee? They say it is bitter.

How does brewing equipment figure into all of this? Are manufacturers of brewing equipment innocent bystanders in the conspiracy to serve North Americans a bad cup of coffee? Or are they co-conspirators? Their equipment, is after all, the delivery mechanism for the coffee that the roasters roast, the distributors distribute and the busboys use to make the coffee this writer alleges is so generally bad. Even if the coffee were fresh and of excellent provenance, and the busboy actually knew what he was doing, the coffee could be no better than the equipment used to make it. This would be where the finger pointing would start if anyone cared that the state of coffee in foodservice is very bad indeed. The problem for manufacturers has been that for years restaurants have not purchased their own coffee brewing equipment, it has been supplied to them and serviced for them by their wholesale supplier of coffee. This wholesale supplier, whether a roaster or a simply a distributor, has obviously not been anxious to go out and find the best piece of equipment they could possibly find. Instead, they have asked manufacturers to develop something cheap and reliable. Looking to cut corners wherever possible, brewing equipment manufacturers have made everything as small, simple and as economic as possible. This means, first of all, that the brew basket had to be as small as possible. No problem. Most of the coffee traditionally brewed in these things tastes twice as bad when brewed twice as strong. This makes it possible to make the machine smaller, light and more compact. Since these machines are designed to brew a weak cup of awful coffee, the spray head was designed to spray a lot of water over a little coffee. Spray heads were never designed to methodically spray a specific amount of water over a lot of coffee, very evenly and within four to six minutes. Finally the temperature of the water has not mattered to anyone involved just so long as it was generally the same temperature. To accomplish these limited goals did not require a whole lot of engineering, and, in the past, that’s just about how much engineering talent was used. Many of the machines in use across North America, consequently, are very well made to do something very well - to make a consistent and weak yet somewhat over-extracted brew of an at best mediocre, and usually Robusta-laden, coffee. Over the past few years, when specialty roasters and a few of the more idealistic staff members of the SCAA have asked manufacturers to upgrade their equipment they have pointed to the overall market landscape and asked, “Why?”


Continued on next page...

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